制鞋过程中专业术语

制鞋過程之專業術語

一. 滿邦鞋制作過程

總体流程

1.basic documents 原始資料 2.trial sample shoe 試版鞋

3.develop sample shoe 開發樣鞋 4.sales sample shoe 銷售樣鞋

5.confirm sample shoe 確認樣鞋 6.order placed 接訂單

7.prepare material 備料 8.mass production大量生產

9.cutting 裁斷 10.stitching 制面

11.semi-product 半產品 12.assemble成型

A. 制面stitching

1. vamp scissoring and cementing鞋面成型 2.vamp folding and cementing折貼鞋面

3. trimming for vamp and lining整修鞋面內里 4.hole punching buckle打釘飾扣

5. gore cementing粘松緊帶 6.stitching針車

7. vamp stitching車合鞋面 8.ornament stitching車飾物

9. vamp binding滾合鞋面 10.inspecting/inspection品檢

11.packing打包 12.transferring to assembling移交底部

B. 成型assemble

1.prepare material 備料 2.mass production大量生產

3.insole staple on last入中底于楦上 4. cementing 上糊

5.toe lasting前邦 6.forepart lasting中邦

7.counter lasting 后邦 8.waxing打蜡處理

9.heating 加硫 10. pull out staple 拔釘

11.brush oil/brush cream打鞋乳 12.wheeling砂磨

13. brush fabric or brush horse打布輪或馬毛輪 14. priming藥水處理

15. cementing上糊 16. heating/drying加熱烘干

17.sole laying貼合 18. sole press壓底

19.cooling冷卻 20.pull-out last拔楦

21.fixing整理 22. cleaning清洁

23.sock laying入鞋墊 24.waxing打蜡處理

25.tying(tie的現在分詞)綁標 26.packing包裝

27.put cardboard and tissue paper上套版與紙團 28.general packing大包裝

29.inspection驗貨 二. 女裝高跟鞋制作過程

總体流程

1.basic documents 原始資料 3.develop sample shoe試版鞋 5.confirm sample shoe確認樣鞋 7.prepare material備料 9.cutting裁斷 11.semi-product半成品 13.assemble成型

A. 制面stitching

30. shipment出貨

2.trial sample shoe試版鞋

4.sales sample shoe銷售樣鞋 6.order place接訂單

8.mass production大量生產

10.stitching制面

12.three in one三合一

1.vamp scissoring and cementing鞋面成型 2.put on reinforced folding edge補強拗邊

3. trimming for vamp and lining整修鞋面,內里 4.stitching 針車

5.vamp stitching車合鞋面 6. vamp binding滾合鞋面

7.inspecting品檢 8.packing打包

9. transferring to assembling移交底部

B. 成型assemble

1.prepare material 備料 2.mass production大量生產

3. insole staple on last 入中底于楦上 4.cementing上糊

5.toe lasting前邦 6.forepart lasting中邦

7.counter lasting后邦 8.waxing打蜡處理

9. heating加硫 10.pull out staple拔釘

11.brush oil/brush cream打鞋乳 12.brush fabric or brush horse打布輪或馬毛輪

13.wheeling砂磨 14.cementing上糊

15.heating/drying加熱烘干 16.sole laying貼合

17.press sole壓底 18.cooling 冷卻

19.pull-out last拔楦 20.fixing整理

21.heel nailing后跟打釘 22.inspecting 檢查

23.cleaning 清洁 24.sock laying 入鞋墊

25.waxing 打蜡處理 26.tying 綁標

27.put cardboard &tissue paper上套版與紙團

28.packing包裝 29.general packing大包裝

30.inspecting驗貨 31.shipment出貨

三. 涼鞋制作過程(加州鞋扣例)

總体流程

1.basic documents原始資料 2.trial sample shoe試版鞋

3.develop sample shoe開發樣鞋 4.sales sample shoe銷售樣鞋

5.confirm sample shoe確認樣鞋 6.order place接訂單

7.prepare material 備料 8.mass production大量生產

9.cutting裁斷 10.stitching制面

11.semi-production半成品 12.assemble成型

A. 制面stitching

1.vamp scissoring and cementing鞋面成型

2.trimming for vamp backi strap &lining整修鞋面后帶內裡

3.hole punching buckle打釘飾扣 4.gore cementing粘松緊帶

5.stitching針車 6.vamp stitching車合鞋里

B. 半成品three-in-one component

1.insole convering包中底 2.cementing上糊 4.gluing貼合 5.inspection品檢 7.cementing上糊 8.drying烘干 10.inspecting品檢 11.packing包裝 12.transferring to assemble移交給成型

C.成型assemble

1.prepare material備料 2.mass production大量生產 3.insole staple on last入中底于楦上 4.cementing上糊

3.drying烘干 6.heel covering包跟 9.guling貼合

5.vamp lasting拉前帶 6.back strap lasting拉后帶 7.counter lasting后邦 8.inspection品檢

9.heating加硫 10.pull out staple拔釘

11.wheeling砂磨 12.primring藥水處理

13.cementing上糊 14.heating/drying加熱烘干

15.sole laying貼合 16.sole press壓底

17.inspecting品檢 18.cooling冷卻

19.pull-out last拔楦 20.fixing整理

21.inspecting品檢 22.cleaning清潔

23.waxing打蜡處理 24.tying綁標

25.put cardboard and tissue paper入套版與紙團

26.packing包裝 27.general packing大包裝

28.inspecting驗貨 29.shipment出貨

鞋類英文的顏色

aqua 水蘭色 azurk 天蘭色 army 軍綠色

antique violet古紫色 amber 琥珀色 alloy 古銀色

burgundy 酒紅色 baby pink 淺粉紅色 blonze淺黃色

brandy 土黃色 blue 藍色 black blue 黑藍色

brown 咖啡色 bright 灰色 butter scotch 奶油色 british tan 茶色 balsamo 綠色 cognac 棕色 chatcoal深灰色 coral 珊瑚色 camel lux 駱駝色 celery green 茱綠色 c.cream 米白色 buck 淺棕色 bone 骨色 bronze 銅色 biscotti 淡褐色 croco 淺咖啡色 chestnut 栗色 camgurao 青沙色 copper 古銅色 cappuccino 奶油色 camp anula 藍色 c.red 紅色 黑色

butter 奶油色

blaze 火紅

bitter sweet 紅色

chocolate巧克力色 chamois骨色

cream 乳白色

cork 土黃色

coffee 咖啡色

c.navy 藍色

cranberry 紅色

black

cuba 黃橙 色 coralline 橙色 cordovan 橙色

chestnut 栗色 cherry 櫻桃色 earth yellow土黃色

espresso 咖啡色 fuchea 桃紅色 fushia桃紅色/紫紅色

fashion red 品紅 flannel 黑灰色 fawn米色 flame 火紅色 grape 深祡色 granny smith 淺綠色 gunsmoke 煙灰色 bing cherry 鮮紅色 bali淺綠色 brunt tan 棕褐色 crimson 酒紅色 fatigue 橄欖綠色 flax 亞麻色 fog 褐色 grey blue 灰藍色 gray/grey 灰色 garnet 紫紅色 hay 干草色 buff 暗黃色 奶油色 beige./white 米色/白色 carnation 玫瑰色 fudge 咖啡色

fushia 桔色

f.green 錄色

green 綠色

gold 金色

graham淺黃色

heather 混色

bisque 米黃色

beige 米色

bogar 紫色

champagne 香檳色 buck skin

camel 駱駝色 Caribbean淺水蘭色 Cobalt blue 鉆藍色/艷藍色

Cauteloag green 海堂綠色 Cantaloup 甜瓜色 Navy blue 藏青色

Nelon green 綠色 New camel 新駝色 Nother pearl 珍珠白色

New.espisso 新咖色 New.blue 新綠色 Natural camon 米黃 Orange 桔色 Olive橄欖色 denim 牛仔蘭色 dusty lilac 灰紫色 daino 米黃色 d.tan 深茶色 drimrose 玫瑰色 purple 紫色 platinum 白金色 New.scarlet 新紅色 New.red 新紅色

New.taupe 新青沙色 New.navy 新綠藍色

Nutmeg 土黃色 Ombre 彩色

Orchid 葡萄色 Ohio淺綠色

Choc 巧克力色 d.blue 海軍藍色

drab 軍綠色 dmerald 翠綠色

d.taupe 深青色 dark camel 深駝色

d.brn 深咖色 d.moss 苔蘚

deep burgundy 深酒紅色 desert 沙色

d.red 深紅色 d.navy 深藍色

pearl 珍珠白 pealizebone珠光色pewter 鐵灰色 紫紅色/梅色

plum

peony 牡丹紅色 port 深紫紅色 poppy深桔紅色

pebble 石頭色 peari pink 桃紅色 perwinkle 湖水色

petal pink 桃紅色 red紅色 petticoat pink 紫桃色rose 淺紅色

ruby 暗紅色 hibiscus 桃紅色honey 蜜蜂色/土黃色 henna 棕紅色 hydrangea 天藍色hyac inth 紅色 indigo 藍色 ivy 淺綠色

ice 冰白色 ivory 象牙色 ice-silver 冰銀色

ice blue冰綠 jade 綠玉色 jade green 翠綠色

jeans 牛仔蘭 jaffa 桔色 jute 黃麻色

white 白色 rough 紅色 raisin 紫色

sky 天空色 sport 紅色 senior ruby 酒紅色scarlet 猩紅/緋紅

salmon pink 橙紅色 shocking pink 鮮粉紅色sobert 青瓜色 stybrn 紅棕色 smoke 煙灰色 stone 沙色/石頭色 sand 沙色 snow white 雪白色speel 錫灰色 silver 銀色 sahara 沙色

ocean 海水藍色 pink粉紅色 pastel blue 粉紅色

peach 粉桃色 paprika辣椒紅 petal 花瓣色

pistachio 黃綠色 pkussian blue 海軍蘭色 pastel 粉蘭色

pansy 紫羅蘭色 pastel pink 粉紫色 kiwi 翠綠色

khaki 卡其色 lemon 檸檬色 l.blue 淺蘭色

leaf 葉綠色 lime 苹果綠色 lilacky 淺紫色

lavender 粉紫色 l.brown 淺咖啡色 l.taupe 淺青沙色

loden 茉莉色 lipstick 紅色 lagoon 天空蘭色 neonorange 桔色 turk天蘭色 rust 鐵紅 rosa 粉色 rice 稻草色 tea 綠/茶色 trans linen 米色 turq 水蘭色 leaden 鉛灰色 lt.pink淺桃紅色 m.brn 中咖色 natural 米黃色/自然色 red burgm 葡萄酒紅 red tan 紅棕色 riota 粉色 red/white 紅/白 turouiose 青綠色 taupe 青沙色 vanilla 香草色 l.golden 淺金色

laguna 水湖蘭色

m.green 綠色

navy 藍色

rose red 玫瑰紅

rum 淺咖色

rose water 酒紅色

rock 石頭色

tan 茶色/棕色

tobacco煙草色

violet 紫羅蘭色/紫紅色

vioca 菜色 viola 紫色 Virginia 紅色

Whisper 淡紅色/降紫色 Wine 酒紅色 Walnut 淺棕色

White 白色 Winter white冬白色/米色 Winter blue 冬藍色

Whisky 威士忌色 whister blue 灰藍色 salvia綠色 saddle棕色 s.navy藍色 toast土司色 yellow黃色 lime ice檸檬綠色 loive 酒紅色 moss黑綠色 misty gray霧灰色 w.wht 白色 wick 古銅色 scarlet鮮紅色 s.brn咖色 s.moss苔蘚色 whistle blue藍色 l.tobacco淺煙灰色 lime green檸檬綠色 lord lino珊瑚紅 melon甜瓜色 mist霧色 wheat麥色

straw稻草色

sage草綠色

summer camel 新駝色

topaz金黃色

winter red冬紅色

l.green淺綠色

luster goid 珠光金色 mause紫紅

mocha 淺咖啡色

mica錫金色

molasses奶油色 morning blue蘭色 merlot葡萄酒紅色

mango芒果色 mushroom褐色 mother peapl桃紅色

鞋類品質檢驗

第一節 鞋類品質檢驗專業術語

activator活性劑 adhesion test膠著力試驗 mulling蒸濕鞋面

adjust調整 age resistor抗老化劑 assembly成型組合

base plane水平基面 mockay修改 beveling中底斜削

bending test彎曲試驗 binding滾邊

bottom side forming底部成型 branding貼商標

butted seam平頭接縫 cable stitching粗線車線

cemented skinning貼合內里/膠水表層凝固現象 backpart center seam后踵接縫

center line中間線 layout流程布置 channel紋溝

closed seam密接縫 component組件 compound混合

contour輪廓 counter sample對等樣品 cut out開飾詞

dressing表面涂飾 glue膠漬 outside welt stitching車外線

pin tuck鞋面折縫 prick mark針孔記號 production line生產線

put on last入楦 mckay process內線車底法 retain the shape保持形狀

roughing磨粗 semi-product半成品 slip sesistance test耐滑試驗 specific gravity比重 stitch marking車縫記號 stripping抽條 thread point著地點 trimming修邊 water based cement水溶性接著劑 migration移動,流動 mold release 脫模劑 pinch in 縮進去 piped seam 滾條接縫 edge inking 底邊上膠 equipment設備 fine stitching縫細線 flexibility彎曲性 grading級放 heat setting加熱定型 clean清理 color fading test褪色試驗 side pressing壓邊

stapling打空气釘

thickness厚度

tying綁標識

line up產前問題分析

open seam露邊接縫

processing制程

fancy stitching花綴縫

fussy毛邊

heel wedge appearance鞋跟外觀

combustible 易燃物

compression test 耐壓試驗 cracking test耐撓試驗 double needle雙針

drying烘干 elongation test伸長率試驗 eyelet punching打鞋眼孔

finish鞋飾 first cementing第一次上糊 folding折邊

heat sealing高周波接合 heel attaching釘鞋跟

insole stapling on last入中底于楦上 last slipping脫楦 lasting allowance鉗邦位

hole punching and buckle inserting打釘飾扣 original equipment manufacture原廠委托制造

last bottom central line楦頭盤底中線 action of sulphur vapor耐硫化試驗

laying and cementing on welt and shank貼糊插鐵心 pull out last拔楦

outsole shaping thin大底削薄 second cementing第二次上糊

stitch length針距 sewing thread縫線 size notch尺寸記號 soaking浸水 splitting片皮 stick length楦頭長度

strain拉緊 surface scoured表面研磨 toe roughing 磨鞋頭

trimming成品整理 turn yellow變黃 vulcanize硫化

water treatment test浸水試驗 welted seam沿條接縫 work-in progress在制品

waxing打蜡

work ticket工作單 wrinkle/x-ray打皺 nail extracting拔釘

inspect檢驗 inventory control物料控制 lapped seam迭合車縫

back seam tack height后踵縫線高度 putting cardboard and tissue paper 上套板紙團

toe box laying and counter pocket cementing入前后套及上糊

counter pocket stamping內里印刷 certificate of inspection檢驗證書

第二節 國際品檢十條

1. 鞋子之外觀,燙金和印刷

Appearance of box and legibility stamping

2. 確定貨號,顏色,尺寸及寬度符合采購單號碼

Confirm the stock number, color, size and width to correspond with the P.O.#number

3. 鞋面之整体外觀:看起來自然,亮麗,有光彩

General overall appearance of upper: look for naturalness eye-appealing luster]

4. 鞋子的內部:中底看起來引人注目,表面完全平整

Interior of shoe: see that sock lining and foam are visually appealing, feel vamp area for complete smoothness

5. 鞋底: 看起來手工干凈,表面平順,底部貼底位置正確并進行了适當的修整

Bottom of sole: look for clean workmanship and smooth appearance, see that sole is properly placed and trimmed.

6. 鞋尖翹度及鞋跟著地點:將鞋放在水閏處,檢查鞋頭翹度是否正常及鞋跟著地點如何

Toe spring and heel tread: see shoe on level surface and check for normal toe spring and heel tread.

7. 中底及外底: 檢查中底及外底之柔軟度

Insole and outsole: check insole and outsole for flexibility

8. 套頭,套后及鐵心:檢查套頭及套后,彎折鞋子以確定裝置鐵心

Box toe, counter, and shank: examine alignment

9. 鞋跟高度及后腰高度:多檢查幾雙鞋子,觀測鞋面高度及后腰高度是否相同

Vamp heights and quarter heights: check for variance within a few pairs of shoes in vamp height and quarter height.

10. 吊牌及卷標: 確定鞋子吊牌,卷標是否與訂單規定符合

Ticketing and labeling: verify accurate ticketing of shoes and labeling of cartons against confirmation order.

第三節 制面一般瑕疵

針車記號不正確 stitch marking is wrong

內里修得不夠好 linings are not trimmed well enough

鞋眼扣掉漆 enamel is coming off the eyelets

針車壓力不夠 there is not enough pressure on sewing

削邊不正確 shoe is skived incorrectly

拗邊拗得不好 folding is not odded enough

針車壓力太大 there is too much pressure on machine

鞋眼扣松動需緊合eyelets are loose and must be tighted

針碼不足there are not enough stitches per inch

鞋眼扣須加墊圈washer must be used with eyelet

針碼太密there are two many stitches per inch

車線的粗細不對the size of thread is wrong

針距太近邊沿stitching is too close to edge

圓形轉角車成方形round corners are being stitched square

鞋頭未按記號針車tip is not stitched on mark-written position

必須使用加強帶reinforcement tape must be used

后包片未按記號針車the outside counter is not stitched in correct position

加強帶未放于正確位置上reinforcement tape is not in right place

滾口內里太多皺紋there are too many wrinkles in collar lining

泡棉太薄foam is not heavy enough

標志未車正確the label is not stitched correctly

滾口泡棉位置太低foam is not positioned high enough

修內里時修到了鞋面致使鞋面受損upper is damaged because of poor trimmed foam lining

滾邊不好binding is not stitched correctly

鞋舌位商標錯誤tongue label is not is right location

沿打得不适合holes are not punched properly

皮料不好leather is not good

鞋眼洞應打透并清理干the punched holes must be cleaned out

針太大needle are too big

底線用錯,顏色應與上端線同色 bobbin thread is in wrong color and must be as same as the top

領口未車于中心collar is not stitched in center

針車線不夠結實thread is not strong enough

滾口內里太大collar lining is too big

內里未貼著良好lining is not cemented correctly

穿孔太大the perforation is too big

鞋口接合太深tongue are stitched in too high

鞋舌未接合于鞋眼片tongue is not stitched in the centre of eyelet

鞋眼太大 eyelets are too big

鞋眼太小 eyelets are too small

鞋舌接合太淺 tongue is stitched too low

材料邊沿必須涂邊處理 edge of material must be stained

邦腳車線邊距太遠 lasting allowance stitch is too far from edge

車線顏色不對 thread is not correct color

印刷不清晰 printing is not clear enough

第四節 成型一般瑕庛

中底發角 angle on insole

后帶太低 backstrap too low

后帶太短 backstrap too short

后帶太緊 backstrap too tight

跟沿上膠 cement on heel

色差 color variation

發霉 get mildew

溢膠未整理清洁 over cement is not cleaned well enough

松緊帶彈性不佳 gore too weak

跟不正 heel not straight

不對雙 not in pair

鐵心不正 shank not straight

底脫膠 sole comes off

變形 shape distortion

車縫不平均 stitching not even

未按記號點車縫 stitching not on the mark

鞋頭不陷 toe broken down

特麗可得露出來 tricot shows up

攀鞋不平均 wrapping not even

顏色錯誤 wrong color

后帶太高 back strap too high

后帶太長 back strap too long

后帶太松 back strap too loose

脫膠 cement comes off

接著力不佳 cementing not good

顏色不配雙 color not matching

皮料瑕疵 defects of surface

釘子露出來 nail comes out

松線,浮線 loose thread

大底不平整 outsole not smooth

鐵心太松 shank too loose

貼底不正確 sole laying not proper

空气釘露出來 staple comes out

鞋面皺紋 vamp wrinkle

攀鞋不緊 wrapping not tight

裁斷錯誤 wrong cutting

前邦機掃刀未調整好 wipers are not adjusted correctly

鞋頭角度不夠 toe shape is not correct

鞋面不合楦頭 upper pattern does not fit the last

鞋子清洁度太差 the shoes are not clean enough

大底打粗不夠 outsole is not roughed well enough

邊沿削皮不夠 the edge is not skived well enough

大底貼合不良 the outsole is not cemented well enough

鞋墊與底上膠不良cementing insole is improperly for sock lining

鞋墊壓著不良sock lining is not pressed correctly

后合縫線不正歪曲不直back seam is off center/crooked/not straight

停線the line stops/stop the line 鞋子不能接受必須剔除reject the shoes

鞋子必須翻箱整理the shoes are rejected and stop

中底印刷不正確sock stamp is not correct

材料因溫度太高面變色material is turning color because of too heat

加硫箱溫度不夠高heat setter is not hot enough

大底修邊太軟toe box is too soft

鞋面上之修飾不夠色top dressing does not match upper color

鐵心不夠堅硬steel shank is not hard enough

鞋面上之修飾不夠色top dressing does not match upper color

鞋面打粗過高roughing lining comes out of sole edge

鞋頭翹度不夠toe spring is too high

邦角不足lasting allowance is not enough

邦角太寬 lasting allowance is too wide

鞋子在楦頭上顯得太松 topline looks too loose on last

鞋子在楦頭上顯得太緊 topline looks too tight on last

后跟邦角內外腰不一致 heel seat lasting-allowance is not as same as both sides

前港寶破裂toe box is broken

后套材料太軟 counter material is too soft

大底顏色不對 color of outsole is not correct

楦頭拔出后后邦破裂counter is busted when removing the last

烤箱溫度太高使得大底太軟outsole is too soft because of the high heat tunnel temperature

鞋墊印刷不正確 sock stamp is not correct

顏色不正確 color is wrong

鞋后高度不對 back height is wrong

鞋頭長度不對 vamp lengths is wrong

清洁度不夠shoes are not clean enough

鞋帶不對 lace is wrong 大底太小 outsole is too small

成型鞋材料太亮 finished material is too bright

成型材料過于霧面 finished material is too foggy

左右腳色差 there is variation between left and right shoe

用太多紙團撐鞋造成變型 shoe is distorted because of too big paper filler

外箱印刷錯誤 cartons are marked wrong

盒子太大 box is too big

盒子太小 box is too small

盒子折得不夠好 boxes are folded well

包跟皮料與鞋面顏色不可 shade of color on heel cover does not match that of the upper

填腹不正確 bottom fillers are wrong

天皮釘釘得不夠深入 toplift nails are not stapled deeply enough

盒子的材質與所要求規格不符 box material do not follow the specified one of the sample order

大底太短 outsole is too short

大底針距不正確 stitches per inch on the outsole is not correct

天皮釘得不夠牢 toplift is not secured well enough

內腰拉邦太松 it is too loose on inside quarter area

左右腳鞋頭不一致 shape toes are not the same in pairs

中底定型不夠好 insole is not moulded well enough

后跟釘太短 heel nails are too short

跟前踢 heel is kicking

大底太長 outsole is too long

線及線頭未能修飾整齊 threads are not trimmed neatly enough

第五節 鞋履制成品試驗

(Tests for finished footwear)

測試項目(test items)

1) 鞋底粘著強力adhesion of stuck-on and moulded-on soles

2) 鞋尖粘著力 toe band strength

3) 鞋跟粘著力heel bond strength

4) 鞋尖護蓋粘著力toe guard bond strength

5) 邊條粘著力foxing strength

6) 接縫強力seam strength

7) 尺碼判定determination of shoes size

8) 真皮革占鞋在百分比率percentage by area of leather in upper material

9) 制成品儲藏后外觀appearance after storage under moist and warm condition

10) 高跟斷裂強度breaking force of high heel

11) 結构分析construction analysis

12) 洗滌試驗wash test first 3 washed/each additional wash

13) 鞋底防滑sole skid resistance

鞋面物料試驗(test for upper material)

一. 紡織物料textile material

1) 布厚度 fabric thickness

2) 經緯密度 thread per unit length (woven fabric)

3) 紗支counts of yarn(per yarn)

4) 線圈密度stitch density(knitted fabric)

5) 抗張強度tensile strength(grab method)

6) 撕裂強度tear strength(tongue tear method)

7) 粘合強度adhesion strength of laminate

8) 破裂強度bursting strength

9) 耐磨試驗abrasion resistance

10) 水洗縮率dimensional stability to washing (I wash)

11) 耐水洗堅牢度 color fastness to washing

12) 耐磨擦堅牢度 color fastness to rubbing(crocking)

13) 耐汗液堅牢度 color fastness to perspiration

14) 耐光堅牢度 color fastness to light

15) 防水試驗 color fastness to water

16) 防水試驗 water repellency

17) 纖維成分 fabric composition

18) 定性分析 qualitative analysis

19) 定量分析 quantitative analysis

二.真皮革類(leather)

1. 厚度 thickness

2. 密度 density

3. 抗張強度及伸長率 tensile

4. 破裂強度 grain crack

5. 撕裂強度 tear strength

6. 吸水度與干燥后重量損耗率free water absorption and percentage weight loss on soaking

7. 曲折試驗 ross flexing

8. 耐磨試驗abrasion resistance

9. 耐磨擦堅牢度color fastness to circular rubbing(crocking)

10. 耐溶劑試驗color fastness to marking off

11. 耐水堅牢度color fastness to water BS1006 UK-LD-AATCC 107

12. 耐光堅牢度 color fastness to water BS1006 UK-LD-AATCC 107

13. 耐干洗堅牢度 color fastness to water BS1006 UK-LD-AATCC 107

14. 氧化鉻含量 chrome oxide content

三.人造皮革類(PVC/PU coated materials)

1. 單位重量 total mass per unit

2. 底部單位重量 mass of backing cloth per unit area

3. 總厚度 over al l thickness

4. 表層單位重量 mass of coating per unit area

5. 抗張強度及伸長率 tensile strength and elongation at break

6. 破裂強度 grain crack strength

7. 撕裂強度 tongue tear strength

8. 表面粘合強度 coating adhesion strength

9. 耐寒溫度試驗 cold crack temperature

10. 曲折試驗 resistance to damage by flexing

11. 老化試驗 aging test

12. 抗滲水性試驗 resistance to penetration by water

13. 耐磨試驗 abrasion resistance

color fastness to rubbing

color fastness to light

中底試驗(tests for insoles)

1. 中底剝離強度 resistance to peeling insole board

2. 硬紙板抗強度 tensile strength of fiber board

3. 浸汗液后耐磨擦試驗 resistance of board finish to rubbing when damp with perspiration

4. 浸水后耐磨擦試驗 resistance of board finish to rubbing when damp with water

5. 耐磨擦堅牢度 rubbing fastness of board finish

6. 硬紙板耐磨度 scuff resistance of fiberboard

7. 硬紙板耐曲折 flexing resistance of fiberboard

鞋底物料試驗(tests for soling materials)

1.密度 density

2.厚度 thickness

3.硬度 hardness

4.抗張強度及伸長率 tensile strength and elongation at break

5.發泡類鞋底撕裂強度 split tear strength of cellular soling

6.曲折試驗 ross flexing resistance room temperature

7.耐磨試驗 abrasion resistance

8. 發泡類鞋底對熱縮率 heating shrinkage of cellular soling

9. 橡膠底含灰量 ash content of rubber soling

鞋履配件試驗(test for accessories)

1. 鞋帶強度 shoe lace strength

2. 拉鏈強度 zipper strength

3. 金屬鞋孔/銫/扣儲 appearance after storage of metallic/eyelet/lace hook/buckle

4. 粘扣帶剪刀試驗 shear strength of hook-and –loop fastener

5. 縫線強度 sewing thread strength

公司英文職位/部門名稱

董事長CEO/president/board of director 總管理部總經理 general manager

副總經理 vice general manager 執行副總經理 executive vice general manager

協理 asst.general manager 廠長 factory manager

經理 manager 副經理 vice manager

主任 dean 副主任 vice dean

科長 chief 副科長 vice chief

組長 supervisor 員工 employee 高級版師 senior pattern technician 初級版師 junior pattern technician 中/高級助理 junior/senior assistant 華風公司 Waffle Shoe MFG..Corp. 瑞星鞋厂 ray shine 生產處 production vision 二廠區 factory zone two 生管科 production planning section 底部 lasting department 班長 monitor

版師 pattern technician

中級版師 ordinary pattern technician

中/高級專員 junior/senior specialist

業務員 merchandiser

瑞恩鞋廠 bright ease

總經理辦公室 general manager office

一廠區 factory zone one

機修科 machine maintenance section

面部 stitching department

半成品科 semi-production section

衝機科 cutting room/impacted section 綱版組 screen printing section

刀模組 cutting die section 料務科/貨倉 warehouse

中倉科 semi-production 購料組 material purchasing division

皮料科 leather division 收發科 receiving and distribution department

品管處 quality control department 品保科 quality assurance section

品管科 quality check section 總管理部行政組 administration team

計算機中心 computer center 教育訓練中心 education and training center

管理改善小組 management reforming team 評估小組 auditing office

業務開發科 R&D department 業務科 merchandising section

開發科 developing section 工技處 technical engeering department

樣品室 sample room 技術科 technical section

放版組 computer grading section 面/底版組 vamp/lasting section

技轉組 technical transferring section 備料組 material preparation team

資料組 document section 總務處 general affairs department

財務科 financial section 采購科purchase section

消防組 fire fighter section 行政科 administration section

人事科 personnel section 報關科 custom section